reykjavik

Urbantravelista | Reykjavik, South Coast, and beyond

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If anyone ever told me I would grow up to become a fan of cold weather trips, I would have told them they were lying.  No sir, no ma’am.  I loathe winter and find nothing enjoyable about it (except for the occasional days I’m snowed in and get to play hooky from work). I’ve spent 99.9% of my life as a resident of Chicago; a city that enjoys about 3 good months of hot summer weather per year. And couple that with the fact I was born just shy of the summer solstice, it would only make sense that I denounce all things cold. Well, I did until I traveled to Iceland back in April of 2016.  Over the course of 4 days and 3 nights, I fell in love with a new territory.

Iceland is a destination that completely contradicts itself.  At first glance, it’s cold, dreary, and melancholy on the surface.  But once you start to peel back it’s intricate layers and immerse yourself into it’s culture, you will be pleasantly surprised by its beauty, warmth, art, and joy. When I visited last year, I KNEW I would return and did just that a few months ago. Coming back the second time offered me the opportunity to dig deeper into its beauty and gain an even greater appreciation for Icelander life. During my first visit (you can read about it here: Don’t sleep on Iceland), I explored the Blue Lagoon, the Golden Circle, and the Northern Lights.  The second time  around, I added sightseeing in Reykjavik, whale watching, and South Coast to my itinerary.

Reykjavik

Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland, is a city that is very near and dear to my heart.  Its art beauty, and culture captured my spirit the first time I came to visit last Spring. The city is adorned with eclectic street art and is home to significant landmarks, museums, and quaint restaurants and shops, collectively known as “city center”.  Most tourists explore it by foot and it’s a short walking distance should you choose to stay at one the bordering large chain hotels.  Reykjavik truly reflects the heart of urban Icelandic culture. For this reason, many tourists opt to stay at one of it’s many Airbnbs, as opposed to the large chain hotels located on the outskirts of city center.

 

Hallgrímskirkja

Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavik’s best known landmarks and its tower is visible throughout the city. The structure was erected in 1986 and took almost 40 years to complete from start to finish. Entry into the church is free.  However, there is an entry fee to enter the tower of the church (Adults: 900 ISK, Children: 100 ISK).  Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to capture a view from the tower as it closes promptly at 5 pm. But no worries, I have an excuse to visit next year!

 

The Icelandic Phallological Museum

Yes, you translated that correctly.  Also known as “the penis museum”, The Icelandic Phallological Museum is the only museum in the world dedicated to ahem…penises and houses more than 215 penis and penile parts from land and sea animals. Its collection also contains 4 human penile parts that were “gifted” by certified donors.  Admission is 1500 ISK and the museum is open daily from 10am to 6pm. They also sell really cool penis related gifts.  It’s located right in the heart of Reykjavik.  I highly recommend a stop there during your visit. I mean,  how cool is it the be the only person in your circle that has visited a penis museum? Not many people share those bragging rights.

 

 

Whale Watching

If you want a break from land activities, Iceland offers activities by boat such as whale watching and the Northern Lights chase. I recommend the tour company Special Tours. They offer round trip pick up service at your hotel (or Airbnb) and the guides are very professional and informative. Exploring Iceland by sea offers captivating views of the Reykjavik city center district and the calm beauty of the Arctic ocean. The boat departs from Old Harbor (located in city center) and the tour lasts about 3 hours.  The boat provides free wifi (gotta post those selfies on social media) and a has two lower cabins that sells souvenirs, refreshments, and coffee.  The lower cabins also provide needed warmth if becomes too cold on the main deck.  Actually, there is no ‘if”.  It WILL become too cold. While floatable overalls to wear over your clothes are provided, I cannot stress the importance of dressing warmly.  Warm hats, gloves, and footwear are your best friend. If you are prone to sea sickness (which 75% of us found we were by the time we made it out to sea), anti-sea sickness tablets are available free of charge.  Sea sickness and the unpredictable (and sometimes low) probability of seeing any whales are the downside of this tour. We never saw any whales, but we did capture some amazing views of the dolphins. Overall, it was a great experience.  The cost of the tour runs about 9.890 ISK.

 

 

Skógafoss Waterfall

The next five landmarks I will cover are located in South Iceland. For this tour, I utilized Geoiceland, the same tour company I did last year when I toured the Golden Circle.   The tour costs about 13.900 ISK and lasts a full day, approximately 10 hours. Our first stop landed us at Skógafoss Waterfall. This waterfall is situated on the Skoga River and is about a 2 hour drive from Reykjavik.  It is considered to be one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland and there is no entry fee.

 

 

Sólheimajökull Glacier Walk

Next, we made our way to Sólheimajökull (don’t worry, I can’t pronounce it either), one of Iceland’s most popular locations for glacial walking and ice climbing.  There is no entry fee. The hike starts off moderate, but becomes challenging against the cold, strong winds. I mean, the wind literally takes your breath away.  But the challenge and frost bitten face and fingertips are totally worth it once you reach to summit. It’s the most peaceful, yet coldest area I have ever visited.  I never thought it was possible to feel both at the same time.

 

 

Eyjafjallajökull

Due to inclement weather, our South Iceland tour was cut a little short. To make up for it, we made a stop to Eyjafjallajökul (nope, I can’t pronounce this one either).  This glacier is actually the site on an active volcano.  Its last major eruption occurred back in April of 2010. Seismic activity is common and it’s frequently monitored by the Icelandic Meterological Office.

 

Seljalandsfoss

Yep, you guessed it, another waterfall; but not just any waterfall. Seljalandsfoss is one of the best known waterfalls in Iceland. What’s so special about it?  Well, it’s one of the only large waterfalls in the world that you are able to stand behind. This landmark is popular for many tourists and offers breathtaking views year round.

 

 

Urridafoss Waterfall

Our final stop was an impromptu visit to Urridafoss Waterfall.  Again, this stop was to make up for the portion of the tour that was cut short. This beauty contains the largest salmon stock in Iceland and is a popular site for fishing…I guess when it isn’t completely frozen?

 

 

This sums up my visit to South Iceland.  Following the unexpected of death of my mom just a couple of months prior, this visit offered me a much needed retreat.  I think that’s what connects my heart and soul to this destination: it’s my retreat from the outside world.  As soon as I step off the plane, I feel a million miles away from all that plagues and stresses me at home. It’s the perfect destination to disconnect and regroup.  It’s calm.  It’s peaceful. It’s serene. Iceland is my sanctuary.

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Until we meet again…

I love the Blue Lagoon

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Back in April, I had the opportunity to visit one of the most serene and terrestrial places on planet: the Blue Lagoon.  So what exactly is this place?  Well for me, it’s one of those dope places that you see on the Travel or Discovery Channel, but never think you will actually ever visit.  But in reality, it’s geothermal spa and happens to be one of Iceland’s most visited attractions. Simply put, if you visit Iceland without making a stop at the Blue Lagoon, you’re doing it wrong.  The lagoon is man-made and located in a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula.  So how did the lagoon come into existence? Well, in 1976 a pool formed at the site from the waste water of the geothermal power plant that had just been built there. A few years later, people started bathing in it after its purported healing powers were popularized. In 1992, the Blue Lagoon company was established and the bathing facility was opened for the public for tourism.

Getting there

The awesome thing about the Blue Lagoon is that shuttles run regularly between Keflavik airport, the spa, and the hotels in Reykjavik. The spa is about a 20-minute drive from the airport and a 50-minute drive from Reykjavík.  This is helpful for those who have an early arrival into Keflavik, but can’t check into their hotel until the late afternoon. For example, my flight arrived at 6am, but check-in for my hotel didn’t start until after 2pm. So, instead of stressing out about how I would spend the next 8 hours consuming my time, I arranged for my shuttle to drop me off at the Blue Lagoon and took a shuttle directly my hotel in Reykjavik when I was done. What a nice way to unwind after a 6 hour flight?

Check-in

If you’re arriving from the airport (or doing a stopover before heading back to the airport…many tourists do this as well), the spa will check your luggage for a nominal charge. The Blue Lagoon offers four standard base packages: standard, comfort, premium, and luxury.  These packages increase in price and amenities. After selecting your package, you’re given an electronic wristband, which is scanned to add al a carte items such as spa treatments, drinks, lunch, etc. The wristband is also used as an electronic key for your assigned locker. In addition to swimwear, you are allowed to bring your own robe, slippers.  If not, you can choose one the packages that offers these items upon check-in. After check-in, guests are REQUIRED to shower before entering the lagoon. As a nurse, I think one of the best attributes of the spa is its strict code of hygiene.

The Experience

After showering, and putting on your suit, you’re free the go out to the lagoon. Some people stay for a short time and others stay for hours. The lagoon has a swim up bar and I had no reservation about drinking Prosecco at 8 o’clock in the morning. I mean, I’m in Iceland! While the temperature outside was about 35 degrees, the average temperature of the lagoon averages around 99 to 102 °F.

So what are the benefits of the lagoon?  Well, the warm waters are rich in minerals like silica and sulfur.  It’s been reputed that bathing in the lagoon helps some people suffering from skin diseases such as psoriasis.

Silica mask
Taking it all in…
Prosecco at 8am

A few reminders

  • Attire: bring swimwear- nope, it’s not “nude” spa
  • Make you reservations early.  The Blue Lagoon fills up rather quickly.  You can book directly with the spa or through a tour company like Gray Line, Viator, or Reykjavik Excursions
  • Protect your hair: the geothermal waters of the lagoon can REALLY dry out your hair. From what I’ve been told, it literally turns your hair into straw.  I recommend wearing a head wrap and avoid submerging your hair into the water.
  • Pictures: Take advange of the on-site photographers. They will take your photo free of charge and even email it to you.
  • Purchase or bring a cell phone cover- you can use a plastic sleeve to secure your phone when you take pictures in the lagoon (unless your phone or device is waterproof).  The Blue Lagoon sells these for $25.00.
  • Silica mud mask: try it, it’s a must!
  • There is a restaurant, hotel, and skin care shop on site. If you’re traveling on budget, the skin care products are much cheaper at the airport.
  • Children: children under the age of 9 years old are only allowed entry with the use of armbands, which are provided free of charge, also, the lagoon is not suitable for children under the age of 2 years old.
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Didn’t take long for me to make friends!

 

And yes, I look forward to returning back in April 2017.  You should join me!

@urbantravelista

Don’t sleep on Iceland

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For most of us, a small island sitting near the “Arctic” ocean and struggling to reach 50 degrees even on its warmest day may not seem like an ideal vacation destination. Usually when we think of “vacation”, we tend to envision the warmth of the sun tanning our skin, sandy beaches, cool mojitos, and lush palm trees.  Thermal underwear, winter boots, and down coats, are completely off our radar.  Well, allow me to open your mind and change your perspective. Iceland is a MUST for your travel bucket list.

As a kid, I remember reading about Iceland in my encyclopedias. It was always one of those destinations I hoped to visit someday, but seemed well beyond my reach. So, when I learned of an upcoming meet up taking place with about 80 black travel enthusiasts  like myself (later dubbed “the #icelandblackout”), I immediately jumped on board.  Like my other travel adventures, I couldn’t wait to share my enthusiasm.  I mean, I was going to freaking Iceland!! But when I shared the news with family and friends, their responses ranged from blank stares to phrases like “but it’s cold there you may as well stay here”… “you’re crazy”, and my personal favorite, “are there any black people there”.  But once they saw the fabulous selfies of me relaxing in the celestial waters of the Blue Lagoon or me posing with a breathtaking view of the Gullfoss Waterfall as backdrop flooding their social media timelines, I went from being crazy to “who did you use to book your trip to Iceland”.  When they saw my Facebook status about the city of Reykavik’s happening nightlife and dancing to hip-hop and trap music with fellow Icelanders, I went from “why are you going to Iceland” to “I CAN’T WAIT to go to Iceland”. My, how quickly people change their perceptions LOL.  But seriously, I think Iceland is a destination everyone should experience at least once.  Getting there is fairly easy and it’s very doable as a solo traveler or with a group.

 Getting there

With carriers such as Icelandair offering daily non-stop service from most major US cities, getting to Iceland is fairly simple.  I used this carrier and had a great experience.  Icelandair allows you check up to two bags weighing 50 lbs each with no baggage fee, they provide bottled water upon boarding, offer USB ports on each seat to charge your electronic devices, offer a  great selection of free movies and other programming, and comes equipped with on board wifi (for a small fee). The flight time from Chicago to Reykjavik is approximately 6 hours, so these amenities were a huge plus for me. If you live on the east or west coast or want to be more cost conscience, WOW Air also offers nonstop service to Iceland.  The fares are much lower, but as a “no frills” carrier, you will miss out on most of the amenities and perks offered by Icelandair. For example, you can fly roundtrip from Baltimore, DC, or Boston for as low as $300 USD, but the baggage restrictions are very strict (your purse actually counts as your carry-on SMH).

Arrival

Keflavik airport is fairly easy to navigate and getting through customs is breeze. There is no entry or exit fee.  Just have your passport ready and you’re good to go. After you pick up your luggage, don’t forget to stop in Keflavik’s duty free shop located across from baggage claim.  I guess now is a good time to mention the downside of Iceland: basic essential items ranging from food to liquor to toiletries are VERY expensive!!! As far as getting to your hotel, you have different options.  Some travelers in my meet up group chose to rent a car during their stay.  But if you’re directionally challenged like myself, you can also take a shuttle.  Gray Line Iceland and Flybus are the most common airport transfers and cost about $36 USD roundtrip from the airport. Another advantage to using the shuttle is that you can also arrange for drop off at the Blue Lagoon and stay for a few hours then take the shuttle to your hotel.  I chose this option because my flight arrived at 6:30am and hotel check-in didn’t begin until 2:00pm. You get to have your first excursion before you even check-in.  How cool is that?

Where to Stay

Iceland offers plenty of lodging options to suit every need and budget. Some tourists utilize traditional hotels, AirBnB home/apartment rentals, and hostels like Hlemmur Square.  During my visit, I stayed at the Hilton Nordica Reykjavik . The hotel is modern and the staff is pretty helpful and accommodating. They offer a daily brunch buffet which cost about $30 USD. And there is also coffee and “grab and go” food served in the hotel lobby.  If you want to skip on dining at the hotel all together without traveling too far, there are a few restaurants that are in very close walking distance for the hotel.  They offer daily free wifi and a free bus pass during your stay.

Reykjavik

One of the biggest regrets of my visit was not exploring more of downtown Reykjavik (Iceland’s capital) and checking out the abundant street art. If you have an appreciation for street art, this is the place to be. And with its street art, this quirky town adorned with quaint shops, boutiques, cafés, and restaurants.  Although I missed out my daytime stroll downtown,  I did get a chance to explore the night life.  After dining at the popular Cafe Haiti (which I HIGHLY recommend), my travel compadres relocated “the #icelandblackout” to one of Reykjavik’s hip-hop clubs, Prikid.  Who knew Icelanders had an appreciation for Drake, Lauryn Hill, 2 Chainz, and Panda? I hadn’t danced and sweated out my hair like that since my early 20’s. Their nightlife is lit and almost reminded me of being back home and Friday night bar hopping on Rush Street.

Excursions

I won’t go into too much depth about the excursions, because I will be blogging about these separately. The most popular excursions are: The Blue Lagoon , The Golden Circle Tour, the South Coast, whale watching tours, glacier climbing, and chasing the wondrous Northern Lights. There’s something for everyone and you can be as adventurous (or not) as you’d like. You can book your excursions with a regular tour company (I recommend Geoiceland Day Tours). But, if you’re a little more adventurous, you can rent a car and do the Golden Circle tour or chase the Northern Lights on your own.   The advantage of renting a car is that allows you to sight see on your own time.  This disadvantage is that the roads can be a little difficult to navigate and you don’t have a tour guide to give you any history.  If you really want to be creative, my travel group rented a party bus to chase the Northern Lights. We were unsuccessful with seeing the lights, as weather conditions must be optimal. The best time of year to see the lights is from September to around April 15th.  Although we missed them, it still didn’t stop us from pulling over and dancing under the Iceland stars.

A few reminders

  • Snacks/Liquor: Again, Iceland is expensive.  If you like to snack and the idea of paying $5.00 for a small bag of chips doesn’t seem appealing to you, pack snacks in your luggage.  And don’t forget to buy water and liquor from the duty free shop at the airport.
  • Tipping: Tipping is not required. And I’m totally okay with that. Did I tell you Iceland is expensive?
  • Currency: Iceland appears to be completely cashless society.  There are ATMs available if you need them, but they are seriously about that chip life.  You know the chips that only a small fraction of businesses are using here in the US? They are so far ahead of the game.
  • Clothing/Packing: Please pack accordingly.  If you plan on doing any outdoor excursions, you will need thermals, a down coat, and a warm hat/gloves. In April it was in the 40’s. Being from Chicago, 40 degrees is pretty tolerable. But what I didn’t consider was Iceland’s 20 degree temperature drop and high winds once travelling outside of Reykjavik. Even as a Chicagoan, I underestimated Iceland’s gangsta and nearly froze during most of the Golden Circle Tour, especially at the Gullfoss Waterfall. It was so cold that I lost a pair of gloves at the halfway point and ended up buying a $30.00 pair (the cheapest I could find) of very plain gloves to get me through the rest of the tour. So if you’re traveling during the milder months, please keep this in mind and pack accordingly.  It’s better to have something and need it than to need it and not have it.
  • Booking: This sounds like a no brainer, but when you book your hotel, please keep in mind that your check-in will be the day AFTER your departure.  For example, if your flight departs Wednesday, April 27th then your check-in will be Thursday, April 28th.  Believe me, I am not trying to insult your intelligence. It’s just one of those things people (including myself) don’t think about if they’re not used to travelling across several time zones.
  • The Blue Lagoon: Book your excursion to the Blue Lagoon early. It’s one of Iceland’s most popular attractions as tourists often do short stopovers while traveling between Europe and the states.  If you wait until the last minute, there may not be availability. It would be a total bummer for you to travel all the way to Iceland and not be able to book the Blue Lagoon. You will be very sad.
  • Footwear: My biggest dilemma was deciding what type of footwear to bring. If you’re doing the Golden Circle tour, I recommend bringing boots that are waterproof and that are easy to clean if they get muddy.  I almost made the mistake to bringing my Uggs.  They would’ve been fine to wear in Reykjavik.  But some parts of the Golden Circle are muddy and I would’ve ruined my Uggs. I recommend footwear like Sperry’s duckboots. They’re stylish, warm, and are able to withstand the elements of the tour.
  • Travel adapter plug: The plugs of our North American appliances will not fit into an outlet in Iceland (and most foreign countries) without an adapter. A travel adapter will allow you plug in your electrical devices during your stay. You can purchase these at Best Buy, Radio Shack, Target, or online at Amazon and REI. They run between $15-20 USD.

As you can see, three nights and four days still didn’t cover everything Iceland has to offer. Therefore, I’m already planning another return for next Spring. Routine travel to destinations like the Caribbean and Mexico is great and have a very needed place in our lives, especially when we need to unplug from the hustle and bustle of the rat race. But travel should occasionally to push you outside of your comfort zone. This is where the magic happens. This is how we experience” life in it’s true essence. Travel to a destination you never thought you’d be interested in or thought was possible. You might leave with more than airport souvenirs. You might leave with a broadened perspective and experience of lifetime. And no one will ever be able to that away from you.

#urbantravelista